Scotland: In search of the red headed Coos!
Hi friends!
We’re back from a truly unforgettable 6-day adventure in Scotland, and we are so excited to share all the highlights with you! From misty lochs and majestic mountains to castles and trains that seem straight out of a storybook, this trip was a dream come true for our family. Whether you’re planning your own Scottish getaway or just love a good travel story, we hope this post inspires you to add this beautiful (in our opinion underrated) country to your bucket list!
Day 1 - The Road to Oban Begins
Our Scottish adventure began with an early morning flight into Manchester Airport. While Edinburgh airport is the most convenient point of entry, we chose Manchester because we found a great deal using credit card points on a direct flight from JFK. After a quick 6-hour plane ride we were back in the UK and buzzing with excitement to explore a new country.
Upon clearing customs, we picked up our rental car at the airport, grabbed a coffee for the road and headed up north to the British island to the town of Oban.
Tip #1: Make sure to request a car with an automatic transmission ahead of time if you’re not comfortable driving a manual, and don’t forget that you drive on the left side of the road in the UK!
We made our first pit stop in Clydesdale about 45 minutes south of Glasgow. Our original plan was to make it to Glasgow to have lunch, but after an overnight flight with a toddler this is as far as we got before grabbing our first Scottish meal of the trip.
The Cairn Lodge Services was like no other roadside pit stop we’ve been to before. It had a jungle gym for the little ones, a gift store, coffee stop, and of course all kinds of delicious options for lunch! And the best part? The kids eat for £1. We also had our first Irn Bru, a bright orange classic Scottish carbonated soft drink invented 1901, which is known to be “Scotland’s other national drink” aside from whisky.
Back on the road we go and on to our first destination in Scotland. After a long but scenic drive from Manchester, winding through the hills and lochs of western Scotland, we spotted it—a storybook silhouette of green rounded towers rising from the trees - Inveraray Castle. We pulled into a nearly empty parking lot around 4:50 PM, just ten minutes before the castle grounds were due to close. The ticket office was quiet, and the lovely woman at the desk smiled, saying, “It will be £20 for 2 adults, children under 5 are free. You’ll have the gardens all to yourselves for about an hour.” And she wasn’t kidding. Getting there right before closing was the Best. Decision. Ever.
We stepped through the gates into what felt like a period piece movie set. Not a soul in sight—just our family, the lush bright blooms of the perfectly groomed bushes. The castle to the left of the path with its signature turrets and green slate roof, standing proudly in front of the manicured lawn. Milo running ahead down the path, laughing and stretching his legs after the long car ride, forcing us to run after him to ensure he doesn’t violate the “keep off the grass” ground rule. We took a moment to take some nice “mommy + son” photos on a stone bench under a weeping willow tree.
We didn’t go inside the castle (next time!), but honestly, we didn’t need to. That quiet, private stroll through the gardens, with the castle bathed in golden light and the hills beyond fading into twilight—it felt like Scotland’s way of welcoming us. By the time we left, we were the last car in the lot, and we continued the last hour of our journey to Oban with full hearts and an amazing first impression.
We finally arrived at our first hotel of the trip right before sunset. We stayed at the Knipoch House Hotel, located just six miles south of Oban on Loch Feochan. This 15th-century former hunting lodge has been thoughtfully renovated to blend historical charm with modern luxury. The decor combined soothing tones with plush furnishings, creating a cozy yet elegant atmosphere - so classically British! The hotel offered an extensive dinner menu and whisky bar. The staff were exceptionally welcoming, ensuring our stay was comfortable and memorable.
Travel Tip:
If you’re driving from southern Scotland or northern England, Inveraray Castle makes for a perfect late afternoon stop—especially if you crave a little serenity after a long road trip.
Day 1 Recap:
• ✅ Flew into Manchester and picked up our rental car
• ✅ Scenic drive through England and into the Scottish Highlands
• ✅ Visited majestic Inveraray Castle
• ✅ Arrived in Oban and enjoyed a relaxed evening after a long day of traveling
Day 2 - Puffin Rock / The Three Isles Adventures from Oban
After our epic journey north from Manchester and much needed rest at Knipoch House Hotel in Oban, we woke up before the sun, full of anticipation for the most special bucket list adventure - meeting the puffins.
That’s right—Day 2 of our Scotland visit was all about boats, birds, and a bit of drama, courtesy of a very overtired toddler. Buckle up!
We were up at the crack of dawn (thank you, jet lag + toddler) and quickly got ready for the Three Isles Early Bird Tour with West Coast Tours. This full-day adventure included the isles of Mull, Staffa, and Iona—a trio of tiny, breathtaking islands off the west coast of Scotland.
By 6:30 AM, we were at the Oban ferry terminal. If you are driving in, there is plenty of street parking, just make sure to check the signs. If you wish to get coffee/breakfast beforehand, many of the cafés in town don’t open til later (after 8:00am), so plan accordingly (we had to settle for vending machine coffee)! The ferry to Craignure on the Isle of Mull was smooth sailing, with cozy seats inside and crispy sea air out on the deck with a small snack counter with limited options, mostly drinks. The weather in April was mid 50s, with a wind chill, so we recommend to bring warmer clothes and hiking shoes.
Once we docked at Craignure, we hopped on a coach bus for a scenic drive across Mull. What a ride it was! Winding single-track roads, mossy forests, grazing sheep, with our eyes set on finding the Scottish Coos! The pre-recorded tour guide voice narrated fun facts, historical moments and pointed out sights along the way. You also have an option of driving your own car from Oban onto a ferry and then exploring the whole island of Mull yourself.
The final leg of the journey to the “Puffin’s Rock” was a small boat and soon we were stepping onto the uninhabited shores of Lunga, one of the Treshnish Isles, where puffins come to nest from March/April to July/August.
And they were everywhere. These adorable little seabirds didn’t mind us one bit. We sat quietly near the edge of the cliffs, just a few feet away, as puffins waddled, flapped, and posed like tiny, feathered celebrities. The hike to the perch wasn’t difficult, but with a toddler we would recommend a backpack or carrier. Milo was a little too excited but also a little confused. Honestly, it was magical—wild, remote, and something we’ll never forget. The boat drops you off for approximately 2 hours so you have plenty of time for pictures, hike across the whole island or have a nice picnic with an insane view!
Tips for Puffin Island:
🍎 Bring food & plenty of water
There is literary nowhere to buy anything on the way, so come well prepared with snacks, drinks and even lunch items like sandwiches, fruits etc.
🧺 Pack light, pack smart
You’ll be carrying everything up steep, uneven terrain. Keep it simple: sandwiches, fruit, reusable water bottles, and treats. For toddlers, either bring a backpack or carrier.
🧥 Layers are key
Even on sunny days, the wind on Lunga is no joke. We were thankful for our waterproof jackets!
📸 Camera at the ready
Puffins are super photogenic and not shy, but don’t get too close—respect their space. A zoom lens is your best friend.
🧻 No facilities here:
Remember, Lunga is wild—there are no restrooms, shops, or bins. Carry everything in, and pack out all your trash.
After the puffin party, we ferried over to our next island. Rising dramatically from the Atlantic Ocean like something carved by giants, another uninhabited isle of Staffa is one of Scotland’s true geological wonders. Located west of the Isle of Mull and part of the Inner Hebrides, Staffa is famous for its towering basalt columns, sea caves, and the legendary Fingal’s Cave—an awe-inspiring sea cavern that feels more like a cathedral than a rock formation. Unfortunately we couldn’t disembark due to the island dock being under construction, but from a short distance it reminded us of the Black Sand Beach in Iceland. We also weren’t too bummed because at this point Milo was passed out and we knew that after all the puffin excitement he needed this nap big time.
Arriving in Iona – Cue the Toddler Meltdown
From there, we had one more isle to visit - Iona. This isle is known for being the birthplace of Christianity in Scotland and it is home to Iona Abbey established in 563 AD. This was meant to be our peaceful stop… and it was. For most of us. But let’s be real: our toddler had other plans.
As we woke him up from a nap while getting off the boat, he seemed okay. However, as soon as we got to the famous Martyr’s Bay Restaurant to grab some mussels for lunch, he absolutely lost it. We took turns eating while one of us was outside consoling our little traveler. We did eventually get him calm enough to come back inside to have some delicious fresh fish and chips and mussels ever! With limited time before our next ferry we walked the small island and explored the white sand beaches, saw the Iona Abbey and Nunnery from a distance.
Sometimes, even in the most beautiful places on earth, toddlers just need to fall apart a little. And that’s okay.
The Three Isles Tour was long, yes, but absolutely worth it. Between the puffins, the stunning scenery, and the mix of wild and calm, it was a day full of family memories—meltdowns and all.
Would We Do It Again? 100% Yes.
After a long day of sightseeing we regrouped and headed back on a quick ferry to Fionnphort before waiting for the bus to take us back to Craignure. We rewarded our little buddy with a treat from the nearby cafe before the hour long bus ride. Our final leg was the ferry back to Oban. We highly recommend sitting outside or near a window because the ferry passes some amazing sights like the Duart Castle and the Lismore Lighthouse.
We made it back to Oban around 8pm. While google maps showed a lot of options for food, some establishments were not kid friendly after a certain time and others were closing soon. We took in the sights on the downtown area and found a local Kebab shop called Marmaris Kebab House where we grabbed a pizza + some Mediterranean food for dinner back at the hotel. If you're staying in Oban we recommend to check out the waterfront Oban Inn for a bite or a drink also The View Oban for lively music, outdoor concert events plus local whisky, gins, and beers (check for kid time restrictions).
🌟 Day 2 Recap:
• ✅ The adventure to get to the Isle of Mull
• ✅ Our first ever in-person sightings of Puffins
• ✅ Fresh seafood on Marty’s Bay on isle of Iona (even with a meltdown)
• ✅ Walking Oban at sunset
• ✅ Dinner at Marmaris Kebab House
Day 3 - Chasing Hogwarts Express, Tasting Whisky, and Spotting Coos on the Road to Skye
Our third day in Scotland was set to be another adventurous one. We had an ambitious plan (do you see a pattern here?) to travel from Oban to the Glenfinnan Viaduct, then make our way to the Isle of Skye and then to our hotel for the night in Fort Augustus on Loch Ness! For reference all of these locations were a couple of hours away from each other and as we later learned, the Isle of Skye is a massive land that requires a minimum of one full day, realistically 2-3 to properly explore!
After two epic days of driving, puffin chasing, and toddler wrangling, we woke up on Day 3 feeling surprisingly refreshed—thank you to blackout curtains and Scottish hospitality in time to say goodbye to Knipoch House Hotel. We hit the road again, bound for one of the most iconic views in all of Scotland: the Glenfinnan Viaduct - better known as the bridge that Harry and Ron flew above in the muggle car while chasing the Hogwarts express in Harry Potter!
Even if you’re not a full-blown Harry Potter fan, seeing the Jacobite steam train chugging across the Glenfinnan Viaduct is like watching a movie come to life. We arrived over an hour early to guarantee a parking space in the lot nearby with other camera-ready travelers. It was perfect timing because we got a chance to grab coffee, pastries and check out a very cool HP dedicated gift shop. From there we took a short 10 min super easy hike to the viewing area. The train goes by the Viaduct twice a day from April to October. We were there for the 10:45am crossing but there is also a 3:15pm if you want to catch it in the afternoon.
And then—there it was. Whistle blowing, smoke trailing behind, the Hogwarts Express (yes, we’re calling it that) curved gracefully across the arches with Loch Shiel in the background. Pure magic. The train rolled up and parked over the aqueduct building up steam. As it passed you could see the hundreds of people in the cliffside cameras at the ready!
Tips for Glenfinnan Viaduct & Jacobite train:
🕥 Arrive early
The hillside where most people watch the train from is easy to find, but definitely arriving at least an hour before crossing is necessary in order to secure parking.
📆 Book ahead
You can also ride the Jacobite steam train from Fort Williams to Mallaig if you want to feel like you are headed to Hogwarts, but fair warning it must be booked between 3-6 months in advance. If your heart is set on that plan way ahead!
After our brush with wizardry, we wound our way toward the Isle of Skye. The landscape opened up into moorlands, lochs, and sweeping skies. Somewhere along the drive, we pulled into the town of Kyle of Lochalsh, which sparked a lot of jokes because—well—I’m Kyle, and it felt like I had reached my ancestral homeland. (Spoiler: no long-lost relatives, but definitely good vibes.) Plus we always thought the name Kyle was of Irish descent, but did you know it was actually Scottish and means “narrow strait”? It originated as a geographical last name referring to someone who lived near a narrow body of water.
We strategically stopped here for highly recommended seafood lunch but also accidentally found a small, cozy spot for a whisky tasting —because how else does one celebrate being in a town with their name on it? Scotland really knows how to do whisky and seafood justice.
But we also had another mission on this road trip to Skye: finding Highland cows—preferably red-headed and photogenic (as they all are). So we did what you should always do in a place like this: ask the locals. And sure enough the fellow pouring the whisky tasting pointed us in the right direction that led us to a small field just off the road with a few woolly, horned beauties grazing peacefully. We were also warned by two local women not to get too close to the babies, because sweet mama coos are known to get very overprotective and can go “cray-cray” pretty quickly. Milo was so amused and kept saying “Moo Moo”. Cue core memory moments.
As evening approached, we had to commit to only one more activity and we chose to see the Fairy Pools. It was around 7:00pm, yet we were all game for a little hike (Having a hiking backpack again was clutch here!). It was a straight shot following the expanding rivers and pools. We arrived at our destination just before sunset, grabbed a few shots and made our way back to our car.
The night was upon us as we made our way to Fort Augustus, where we checked into the Highland Club—a former abbey turned hotel nestled on the shores of the famous Loch Ness.
When we got to the hotel grounds, it was pitch black outside. We were anxious to wake up the next morning to really explore this place. The building itself is stunning—gothic and grand, with arched stone hallways and an atmosphere of (once again) a Harry Potter film set.
When we self-checked in and walked into our apartment quarters, it was an immediate WOW! reaction. Was all of this for us? That’s the exact thought and comment we made out loud. We were welcomed with a huge basket full of snacks, food, and even a bottle of wine with a warm hand-written note thanking us for our arrival. It was unexpected and much appreciated after a long day of driving. We put Milo to bed and cracked open the bottle of wine while watching local Scottish game shows until we fell asleep.
🌟 Day 3 Recap & Highlights 🌄 :
• Watching the Jacobite train sweep across the Glenfinnan Viaduct
• Whisky tasting in Kyle with Kyle (because Kyle is cool but even cooler in Kyle)
• The coziest seafood lunch at Fisherman’s Kitchen with loch views
• A successful Highland Coo sighting
• The Fairy Pools at sunset—magical doesn’t even cover it
• Arriving at the Highland Club, our castle-like home base in Fort Augustus
This day had it all: cinematic views, charming towns, whisky, wildlife, and waterfalls. Scotland continued to surprise and delight us at every turn—and we’re only halfway through.
Day 4 – Reindeer, Wild Coos & Highland Magic at Loch Ness
We woke up on Day 4 nestled deep in the heart of the Highlands at The Highland Club in Fort Augustus, and let me just say—it was hard to leave that cozy, historic abbey-turned-hotel bed. But today had another pretty incredible experience in store: Real, fuzzy, friendly reindeer.
After a slow breakfast in our apartment (where we debated whether Nessie might pop by for tea), we loaded up and set off toward Cairngorms National Park, home to the only free-ranging herd of reindeer in the UK. The drive was absolutely stunning—rolling hills, sparkling lochs, and moody skies that felt very Scottish.
We booked the Reindeer Hill Trip with The Cairngorm Reindeer Herd. Conditions can get a little more challenging in the winter months (Feb - April) For this reason they have a minimum age requirement of 4 years old during that time. Which is perfect because we planned on going with our 2 year old on May 1st!
Check their website to make reservations! https://www.cairngormreindeer.co.uk
We hiked with guides up into the hills, surrounded by breathtaking mountain views, and there they were: gentle, curious reindeer, trotting toward us for snacks. The kids were wide-eyed, carefully holding out hands full of feed while these sweet creatures nuzzled in. It felt like stepping into a Christmas postcard in May.
After our hike, we were starving and thrilled to grab a cozy, satisfying lunch at The Pine Marten Bar + Scran. Tucked into the Cairngorms, this little gem served up warm, hearty food with a side of panoramic views. It felt like a little ski lodge hut and we were here for it. Milo loved the soup!
In this area you could also do a falconry experience if you wish, but again make sure you book ahead.
On our way back westward, we struck Highland gold again— another Highland cows sighting just south of Inverness. Right off the roadside, there they were: shaggy, red-haired beauties with curved horns and the kind of lazy swagger that makes them look like the Royal UK rockstars. We pulled over and took roughly 400 photos while admiring these adorable creatures.
We made it back to The Highland Club in the late afternoon, and finally got to explore the stunning grounds. The old abbey courtyard felt like yet another storybook. We enjoyed the arched windows, ivy-clad walls, and an enormous outdoor chessboard that quickly turned into a full-on family tournament. (Spoiler: Milo invented his own rules and technically won.) We walked the grounds exploring all this hotel had to offer. We only wished we had more time! I could have spent a week staying in this castle because there was so much to do and only a short drive to so many offsite activities. The location is a perfect home base for so many day trips.
For dinner we headed down to The Boathouse Restaurant located on premises, perched right on the edge of Loch Ness. We enjoyed some more whisky offerings, the fish and chips and some sticky toffee pudding with a gorgeous view of the lake, while chatting with another American couple traveling with a 1 year old baby girl sitting next to us. Like a lot of places in Scotland reservations are recommended!
We spent the rest of the evening doing one thing that felt most appropriate - watching Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire that we borrowed from HC’s massive DVD library —because after seeing the Jacobite steam train, visiting reindeer, and roaming castles, it just felt right.
🌟 Day 4 Highlights:
• Feeding free-ranging reindeer in Cairngorms National Park
• Mountain views and local fare at The Pine Marten Bar + Scran
• Spontaneous Highland coo sighting (and photo shoot)
• Outdoor chess shenanigans at The Highland Club
• Sunset dinner on Loch Ness at The Boathouse
• Movie night magic with Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire
Day 5: - From Loch Ness to the Royal Mile
With just a couple of days left, we headed to the capital city of Scotland, Edinburgh!
But before departing the The Highland Club, we had to check out the most epic indoor pool that you reserve all to yourself. A calm, restorative way to start our final stretch of Scottish adventure, while giving Milo a chance to practice everything he learned in swim classes and his favorite move - jumping in the water.
From Fort Augustus Edinburgh is about a three-hour drive. We stopped at the cutest cafe for breakfast in Dalwhinnie to break it up.
The Apiary—a tiny gem of a café that served up the best fresh-baked tarts we’ve had on this trip. Their breakfast sandwiches were warm, melty, and deeply satisfying, and of course, the coffee specialties like beetroot latte, hit the spot after an early start. It was the kind of place where you want to linger, where everything is made with care (and probably butter). We even grabbed a few savory pastries for the road!
We arrived in Edinburgh by early afternoon and checked into our hotel before heading out to explore the Royal Mile. This iconic street—lined with centuries-old buildings, street performers, shops, and historic charm—buzzes with energy, but it’s easy to wander down little closes and side alleys for a quieter look at the city.
The highlight for Milo? A real owl, perched calmly next to its handler on the street. We stopped, said hello, and snapped a few adorable photos with this wise-looking feathered friend. A real-life Hedwig!
We wandered uphill toward The Scotch Whisky Experience, right next to Edinburgh Castle, and popped in to make a reservation for the next day’s tour. From there, we walked by the Edinburgh Castle and admired it from the bottom of the hill in sunset lighting (if you wish to visit the inside, once again booking weeks ahead is a must) , ending our second to last day at the perfect spot for dinner: The Tollbooth Tavern. Tucked slightly off the Royal Mile and away from the thick of the tourist crowd, it felt like a proper Scottish pub, low ceilings, wooden beams, cozy nooks, and all. The food was hearty and flavorful—exactly what we were craving after a long travel day.
The true star? Sticky toffee pudding and a slice of homemade cheesecake for dessert. Both absolutely worth writing home about. (Or blogging about!)
🌟 Day 5 Highlights:
• Private swim at The Highland Club pool 🏊
• Breakfast stop at The Apiary in Dalwhinnie 🥐☕
• Wandering Edinburgh’s Royal Mile with an owl encounter 🦉
• Booking our whisky tasting tour for tomorrow 🥃
• Sunset views of the Edinburgh Castle 🏰
• Cozy dinner at The Tollbooth Tavern, with desserts to remember 🍮🍰
Day 6 – 🥃 Starting the Day with a Dram
We began the morning with an adult highlight: a whisky tasting at The Scotch Whisky Experience. Located just beside the towering Edinburgh Castle, this beautifully curated tour brought us into the heart of Scotland’s national drink. It was a modern, immersive, educational, and incredibly tasty experience. And definitely very kid-friendly because Milo was mesmerized by the high-tech lighting and visual effects throughout the tour and enjoyed his Irn-Bru tasting.
Next, we wandered over to The Museum Context—a dreamy Harry Potter-themed shop that looks like it was plucked straight out of Diagon Alley. Multi-story, mysterious, and full of magical details, it had everything from wands and house scarves to floating candles and vintage books. The line seems long from the street but it doesn’t take too long to get in.
All that exploring called for a proper meal, and The Mussel & Steak Bar delivered. Tucked off the Royal Mile, this cozy eatery served up tender steaks and fresh seafood—mussels in creamy garlic sauce, juicy ribeye, and even some bites the kids were willing to try. We left happy, full, and already planning an afternoon recovery drink!
But it didn’t end there, because next we grabbed a quick “pick-me-up” at The Milkman - a tiny, charming café with warm wood interiors and incredible espresso. The turmeric latte, flat white and the pastries were to die for! We snagged a carrot cake and cranberry bar and parked on the bench outside, people watching for a while.
As our feet began to tire, we made one last spontaneous stop at the National Museum of Scotland—and it turned out to be one of Milo’s favorite moments of the day. This massive (and free!) museum is packed with treasures, but we made a beeline for the natural history section, where we were greeted by a towering T. rex skeleton, life-sized prehistoric creatures, and interactive exhibits that had Milo wide-eyed and bouncing between displays.
We also wandered through the animal exhibits—giant giraffes, soaring birds, and even a robotic replica of Dolly the Sheep. It was a perfect family-friendly finale that balanced out the grown-up fun with some pure, wide-eyed wonder. If you are looking for a toddler friendly activity look no further, and the best part is that it is free to enter!
🌟 Day 6 Highlights:
• Whisky tasting at The Scotch Whisky Experience 🥃
• Wand shopping at Museum Context Harry Potter shop 🧙♂️
• Delicious lunch at The Mussel & Steak Bar 🥩
• Coffee break at The Milkman ☕
• Dino-filled finale at the National Museum of Scotland 🦖
Our 6-day Scottish adventure took us from the rolling roads of Manchester to the breathtaking Highlands and historic charm of Edinburgh, with unforgettable family moments along the way. We wandered castle gardens in Inveraray, island-hopped to see puffins and picnic on Lunga, chased the Hogwarts Express at Glenfinnan, tasted whisky in Kyle, and dipped our toes in the Fairy Pools at sunset. From swimming in a converted monastery at The Highland Club to feeding reindeer in Cairngorms and spotting Highland coos in the wild, every day offered something magical. We wrapped it all up with Harry Potter sights, whisky tastings, and dinosaur encounters in Edinburgh—Scotland captured our hearts with its rugged beauty, warm people, and family-friendly wonder.
Thanks for joining us on this wild and wonderful journey.