Scotland: In search of the red headed Coos!
Hi friends!
We’re back from a truly unforgettable 6-day adventure in Scotland, and we couldn’t wait to share all the highlights with you! From misty lochs and majestic mountains to castles and trains that seem straight out of a storybook, this trip was a dream come true for our family. Whether you’re planning your own Scottish getaway or just love a good travel story, we hope this post inspires you to add this beautiful (in our opinion underrated) country to your bucket list!
Day 1
Our Scottish adventure began with an early morning flight into Manchester Airport. While Edinburgh airport is the most convenient point of entry, we chose Manchester because we found a great deal using credit card points on a direct flight from JFK. After a quick 6 hour flight we were back in the UK and buzzing with excitement to explore a new country. Upon clearing customs, we picked up our rental car right from the airport, grabbed a coffee for the road and said hello to the road trip up to the north of the British island on our way to Oban.
Tip #1: Make sure to request a car with automatic transmission ahead of time if you’re not used to driving manual, and don’t forget they drive on the left side of the road in the UK!
We made our first pit stop in Clydesdale about 45 minutes south of Glasgow! Our original plan was to make it to Glasgow to have lunch, but after a restless night with a toddler on the red eye from JFK this is as far as we got before grabbing our first English meal of the trip. The Cairn Lodge Services was like no other roadside pit stop, it had a jungle gym for the little ones, a gift store, coffee stop, and of course all kinds of delicious options for lunch! And the best part? The kids eat for 1£. We also had our first, of many, Irn Bru, a Scottish carbonated soft drink from 1901!
Back on the road we go and on to our first destination in Scotland, Inveraray Castle. After a long but scenic drive from Manchester, winding through the hills and lochs of western Scotland, we spotted it—a storybook silhouette rising from the trees: Inveraray Castle.
Best. Decision. Ever.
We pulled into the nearly empty car park around 4:50 PM, just ten minutes before the castle grounds were due to close. The ticket office was quiet, and the lovely woman at the desk smiled, saying, “You’ll have the gardens all to yourselves.” And she wasn’t kidding.
We stepped through the gates into what felt like a forgotten world. Not a soul in sight—just our family, the soft crunch of gravel underfoot, and the gentle rustling of spring leaves in the breeze. The castle loomed ahead with its signature turrets and green slate roof, standing proudly at the end of a manicured lawn. The kids ran ahead down the path, laughing and stretching their legs after the long car ride, while we wandered slowly behind, soaking it all in. The gardens were peaceful, almost reverent. Rows of tulips nodded in the breeze, and the scent of wildflowers mingled with damp earth and fresh Highland air. A small robin hopped along the path beside us, as if guiding us toward the little stone bridge arching over a trickling stream.
We didn’t go inside the castle (next time!), but honestly, we didn’t need to. That quiet, private stroll through the gardens, with the castle bathed in golden light and the hills beyond fading into twilight—it felt like Scotland’s way of welcoming us. By the time we left, we were the last car in the lot, and we continued the last hour of our journey to Oban with full hearts, quiet smiles, and the feeling that we had just stepped into a fairy tale—if only for a moment.
The sun had set and we finally arrived at our first hotel of the trip. We stayed at the Knipoch House Hotel nestled just six miles south of Oban, this 15th-century former hunting lodge has been thoughtfully renovated to blend historical charm with modern luxury. Our room offered breathtaking views of Loch Feochan, framed by the Argyll hills. The decor combined soothing tones with plush furnishings, creating a cozy yet elegant atmosphere. We appreciated the modern amenities, including a spacious en suite bathroom and complimentary Wi-Fi.
The hotel offered an extensive dinner menu and whisky bar. The staff were exceptionally welcoming, ensuring our stay was comfortable and memorable
Travel Tip:
If you’re driving from southern Scotland or northern England, Inveraray Castle makes for a perfect late afternoon stop—especially if you crave a little serenity after a long road trip.
Day 1 Recap:
• ✅ Flew into Manchester and picked up our rental car
• ✅ Scenic drive through England and into the Scottish Highlands
• ✅ Arrived in Oban and enjoyed a relaxed evening after a long day of traveling
Day 2
After a long day of driving After our epic journey north from Manchester and a dreamy first night at Knipoch House Hotel in Oban, we woke up to the soft light of a Highland morning, mist rising off Loch Feochan, and the promise of puffins on the horizon.
That’s right—Day 2 of our Scotland adventure was all about boats, birds, and a bit of family drama, courtesy of a very overtired toddler. Buckle up!
We were up at the crack of dawn (thank you, jet lag + toddler) and quickly packed our day bags for the Three Isles Early Bird Tour with West Coast Tours. This full-day adventure would take us to Mull, Staffa, and Iona—a trio of tiny, breathtaking islands off the west coast of Scotland.
By 6:30 AM, we were at the Oban ferry terminal. Our plan was to have coffee at a nearby cafe and grab some snacks for the day but nothing opens til 8:00. If you are driving in, their is plenty of street parking, just make sure to check the signs. Make sure to plan accordingly and grab coffee elsewhere because we found our only option a couple of vending machines. The ferry to Craignure on the Isle of Mull was smooth sailing, with cozy seats inside and wild sea air out on the deck and a fully stocked cafe on the boat. The weather in April was mid 50s, with a wind chill, so it is recommended to bring warmer clothes and hiking shoes.
Once we docked at Craignure, we hopped on a coach for a scenic drive across Mull. Think winding single-track roads, mossy forests, grazing sheep, with our eyes set on finding the Scottish Coos! While you can drive you own car from Oban onto a ferry and then explore the whole island of Mull yourself but we opted for a tour.
The bus ride was a scenic hour and had facts and information pointing out sights and giving us a history of the island of Mull playing along the way as we drove across the island to a ferry wait to take us to Lunga.
Our tiny boat to Lunga bobbed through sparkling blue waves, and soon we were stepping onto the rocky shore of Lunga, one of the Treshnish Isles, where puffins come to nest in summer.
And they were everywhere. These adorable little seabirds didn’t mind us one bit. We sat quietly on the cliffs, just a few feet away, as puffins waddled, flapped, and posed like tiny, feathered celebrities. Milo was in heaven. The hike to the perch wasn’t difficult, but with a toddler I would recommend a backpack or carrier. Honestly, it was magical—wild, remote, and something we’ll never forget. The boat drops you off for approximately 2 hours so you have plenty of time for pictures, a hike across the uninhabited island or a picnic!
Picnic Tips for Puffin Island:
🧺 Pack light, pack smart:
You’ll be carrying everything up steep, uneven terrain. Keep it simple: sandwiches, fruit, reusable water bottles, and treats. For toddlers, either bring a backpack or carrier.
🧥 Layers are key:
Even on sunny days, the wind on Lunga is no joke. We were thankful for our waterproof jackets!
📸 Camera at the ready:
Puffins are super photogenic and not shy, but don’t get too close—respect their space. A zoom lens is your best friend.
🧻 No facilities here:
Remember, Lunga is wild—there are no restrooms, shops, or bins. Carry everything in, and pack out all your trash.
After the puffin party, we ferried over to our next island. Rising dramatically from the Atlantic Ocean like something carved by giants, the uninhabited island of Staffa is one of Scotland’s true geological wonders. Located west of the Isle of Mull and part of the Inner Hebrides, Staffa is famous for its towering basalt columns, sea caves, and the legendary Fingal’s Cave—an awe-inspiring sea cavern that feels more like a cathedral than a rock formation.
Arriving in Iona – Cue the Toddler Meltdown
Known for its ancient abbey and spiritual atmosphere, Iona was meant to be our peaceful stop… and it was. For most of us. But let’s be real: our toddler had other plans.
We had just arrived, the sun was shining, and the vibe was as calm as could be—until our littlest travel buddy decided he was done. We woke him up from a nap on the boat and once we got to the famous Martyr’s Bay Restaurant he lost it. We took turns eating while one of us was outside consoling our little traveler. We did eventually get him calm enough to come back inside to have a delicious the most fresh fish and chips and mussels ever! With limited time before our next ferry we walked the small island and explored the white sand beaches and saw the Iona Abbey and Nunnery from a distance.
Because sometimes, even in the most beautiful places on earth, toddlers just need to fall apart a little. And that’s okay.
Would We Do It Again? 100% Yes.
The Three Isles Tour was long, yes, but absolutely worth it. Between the puffins, the stunning scenery, and the mix of wild and calm, it was a day full of family memories—meltdowns and all.
Winding Down & Heading Back
After a long day of sightseeing we regrouped and headed back on a quick ferry to Fionnphort before waiting for the bus to take us back to Craignure. We rewarded our little buddy with a treat from the nearby cafe before the hour long bus. Our final leg was the ferry back to Oban. I highly recommend sitting outside or near a window because the ferry passes some amazing sights like the Duart Castle and the Lismore Lighthouse.
As we headed home from our fulfilling day of puffins and island hopping we made it back to Oban around 8pm. While google maps showed a lot of options for food some establishments were not kid friendly after a certain time and others were closing soon. We took in the sights on the downtown area of Oban for our final night here and found a local Kebab shop called Marmaris Kebab House which we shared a pizza with Milo and some Mediterranean food for dinner back at the hotel. If you're staying in Oban I highly recommend the waterfront Oban Inn for a bite or a drink also The View Oban for lively music, outdoor concert events plus local whisky, gins, and beers.
🌟 Day 2 Highlights:
• The adventure to get to the Isle of Mull
• Our first even in person sightings of Puffins
• Fresh seafood on Marty’s Bay
• Walking Oban at sunset
• Dinner at Marmaris Kebab House
Day 3
Chasing Trains, Tasting Whisky, and Spotting Coos on the Road to Skye
After two epic days of driving, puffin chasing, and toddler wrangling, we woke up on Day 3 at the Knipoch House Hotel feeling surprisingly refreshed—thank you, blackout curtains and Scottish hospitality. With our bags packed and bellies full from a hearty breakfast (and maybe one too many pastries), we said goodbye to Oban and hit the road again, bound for one of the most iconic views in all of Scotland: the Glenfinnan Viaduct.
Even if you’re not a full-blown Harry Potter fan, seeing the Jacobite steam train chugging across the Glenfinnan Viaduct is like watching a movie come to life. We arrived early, found a spot on the hillside with other camera-ready travelers, and waited with anticipation as the wind picked up and the clouds played their moody Highland game. The train goes by the Viaduct twice a day in the from April to October. We were there for the 10:45 crossing but there is also a 3:15 if you want to catch the afternoon crossing. The hillside where most people watch the train from is easy to find, but parking can be very limited, so arrive early.
And then—there it was. Whistle blowing, smoke trailing behind, the Hogwarts Express (yes, we’re calling it that) curved gracefully across the arches with Loch Shiel in the background. Pure magic. The train rolled up and parked over the aqueduct building up steam. As it passed you could see the hundreds of people in the cliffside cameras at the ready!
After our brush with wizardry, we wound our way toward the Isle of Skye. The landscape opened up into moorlands, lochs, and sweeping skies. Somewhere along the drive, we pulled into the town of Kyle of Lochalsh, which sparked a lot of jokes because—well—I’m Kyle, and it felt like I had reached my ancestral homeland. (Spoiler: no long-lost relatives, but definitely good vibes.)
We stopped here for a leg stretch and found a small, cozy spot for a whisky tasting and the freshest seafood lunch—because how else does one celebrate being in a town with their name on it? Scotland really knows how to do seafood justice.
We had a mission on this road trip: find Highland cows—preferably red-headed and photogenic. So we did what you should always do in a place like this: ask the locals. And sure enough, a friendly couple at a roadside stop gave us very specific directions that led us to a small field just off the road with a few woolly, horned beauties grazing peacefully.
Cameras out. Coo spotted. Mission accomplished.
As evening approached, we detoured into Glen Brittle on the Isle of Skye to see the Fairy Pools. The name alone had our kids intrigued, and even after a long day of travel, we were all game for a little hike.
It was a straight shot following the expanding rivers and pools. We arrived at our destination just before sunset, grabbed a few shots and made our way back to our car.
The night was upon us as we made our way to Fort Augustus, where we checked into the Highland Club—a former abbey turned hotel nestled right on Loch Ness.
The building itself is stunning—gothic and grand, with arched stone hallways and an atmosphere of peace and history. It felt like the perfect place to recharge before diving into the next part of our journey. When we got to the hotel grounds, it was pitch black outside so we were anxious to wake up the next morning to really take in the grounds. But when we got to our room and dropped off our luggage we were pleasantly surprised with the welcome package left for us. The Highland club leaves you a picnic basket full of snacks, food, and even a bottle of wine for your arrival. It was unexpected and very welcomed after a long day of driving. We put Milo to bed and cracked open the bottle of wine while watching local Scottish game shows until we fell asleep.
🌄 Highlights of the Day:
• Watching the Jacobite train sweep across the Glenfinnan Viaduct
• Whisky tasting in Kyle (because Kyle)
• The coziest seafood lunch with loch views
• A successful Highland Coo sighting
• The Fairy Pools at sunset—magical doesn’t even cover it
• Arriving at the Highland Club, our castle-like home base in Fort Augustus
This day had it all: cinematic views, charming towns, whisky, wildlife, and waterfalls. Scotland continues to surprise and delight us at every turn—and we’re only halfway through.
Day 4 – Reindeer, Wild Coos & Highland Magic at Loch Ness
We woke up on Day 4 nestled deep in the heart of the Highlands at The Highland Club in Fort Augustus, and let me just say—it was hard to leave that cozy, historic abbey-turned-hotel. But today had something pretty incredible in store: reindeer. Real, fuzzy, friendly reindeer.
After a slow breakfast in our apartment (where we debated whether Nessie might pop by for tea), we loaded up and set off toward Cairngorms National Park, home to the only free-ranging herd of reindeer in the UK. The drive was absolutely stunning—rolling hills, sparkling lochs, and moody skies that felt very Scottish.
We booked the Reindeer Hill Trip with The Cairngorm Reindeer Herd. Conditions can get a little more challenging in the winter months (Feb - April) For this reason they have a minimum age requirement of 4 years old during that time. Which is perfect because we planned on going with our 2 year old on May 1st!
Check their website to make reservations! https://www.cairngormreindeer.co.uk
The reindeer experience was pure magic. We hiked with guides up into the hills, surrounded by breathtaking mountain views, and there they were: gentle, curious reindeer, trotting toward us for snacks. The kids were wide-eyed, carefully holding out hands full of feed while these sweet creatures nuzzled in. It felt like stepping into a Christmas postcard in May.
After our hike, we were starving and thrilled to grab a cozy, satisfying lunch at The Pine Marten Bar + Scran. Tucked into the Cairngorms, this little gem served up warm, hearty food with a side of panoramic views. The atmosphere was relaxed, the staff friendly, and the local dishes hit the spot. Milo loved the soup!
On our way back westward, we struck Highland gold again—this time in the form of wild Highland cows just south of Inverness. Right off the roadside, there they were: shaggy, red-haired beauties with curved horns and the kind of lazy swagger that makes them look like Highland royalty. We pulled over, took roughly 400 photos, and had a brief moment of silence to appreciate just how adorably majestic they are.
We made it back to The Highland Club in the late afternoon, and finally got to explore the stunning grounds. The old abbey courtyard felt like a storybook—arched windows, ivy-clad walls, and an enormous outdoor chessboard that quickly turned into a full-on family tournament. (Spoiler: Milo invented his own rules and technically won.) We walked the grounds exploring all this hotel had to offer, which was a lot. We only wished we had more time! I could have spent a week staying in this castle because their was so much to do on the grounds and it was only a short drive to so many off site activities as well. Inverness was just an hour away. The Isle of Skye was only 2 hours. So many day trips could have been had form this home base.
We tried to get into the indoor pool for a swim, but found out it’s by reservation only—so we booked our slot for the next morning and turned our attention to more important things: dinner.
We wandered down to The Boathouse Restaurant, perched right on the edge of Loch Ness, with tables overlooking the calm evening water. Between the fresh seafood, cozy ambiance, and Loch views, it was the perfect end to a very full day. (Bonus points for the sticky toffee pudding and whisky selection.) Like a lot of places in Scotland reservations are recommended!
Back in our room, in true Highlands-meets-family-travel style, we curled up together with blankets, snacks, and a rental of Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire—because after seeing the Jacobite steam train, visiting reindeer, and roaming castles, it just felt right.
🌟 Day 4 Highlights:
• Feeding free-ranging reindeer in Cairngorms National Park
• Mountain views and local fare at The Pine Marten Bar + Scran
• Spontaneous Highland coo sighting (and photo shoot)
• Outdoor chess shenanigans at The Highland Club
• Sunset dinner on Loch Ness at The Boathouse
• Movie night magic with Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire
Day 5: A Morning swim, long drive with snacks, and our first adventure in Edinburgh!
The Highlands continue to enchant us with every bend in the road. With just a couple of days left, we’re soaking in the magic, one puffin, coo, and loch at a time.
More adventures coming soon—next up: we head to the capitol city of Scotland, Edinburgh!
Today felt like two trips in one—a peaceful Highland morning followed by a big-city evening full of history, owls, and cozy pub food. Our journey took us from the tranquil abbey walls of Fort Augustus to the lively cobbled streets of Edinburgh, and somehow, we managed to soak in every moment (and every bite).
We began our day at The Highland Club, and I’m not exaggerating when I say we had the entire indoor pool to ourselves. The kids swam circles around us while sunlight spilled through tall, arched windows. Floating in that warm, echoing space—formerly a monastery chapel—felt like stepping into a dream. A calm, restorative way to start our final stretch of Scottish adventure.
We said goodbye to Fort Augustus and hit the road for Edinburgh, about a three-hour drive, with the promise of breakfast in Dalwhinnie to break it up.
Dalwhinnie was about an hour and a half south of Fort Augustus so we googled breakfast options and found The Apiary—a tiny gem of a café that served up the best fresh-baked tarts we’ve had on the trip. Their breakfast sandwiches were warm, melty, and deeply satisfying, and of course, the coffee hit the spot after an early start. It was the kind of place where you want to linger, where everything is made with care (and probably butter). We love some car snacks so we grabbed a few savory pastries for the road!
We arrived in Edinburgh by early afternoon and checked into our hotel before heading out to explore the Royal Mile. This iconic street—lined with centuries-old buildings, street performers, shops, and historic charm—buzzes with energy, but it’s easy to wander down little closes and side alleys for a quieter look at the city.
The highlight for Milo? A real owl, perched calmly next to its handler on the street. We stopped, said hello, and snapped a few adorable photos with this wise-looking feathered friend. Milo was mesmerized, alternating between laughter and wide-eyed awe. “He’s like Hedwig!” he said, and honestly… he kind of was.
We wandered uphill toward The Scotch Whisky Experience, right next to Edinburgh Castle, and popped in to make a reservation for the next day’s tour. The kids were fascinated by the shiny barrels and displays (and the promise of a sweet tasting of their own).
From there, we made it to the Edinburgh Castle esplanade just as the sun began to set, casting golden light over the city skyline. Bagpipes played somewhere in the background. It was one of those classic Scotland moments that feels more like a movie than real life.
We ended our day at the perfect spot for dinner: The Tollbooth Tavern, tucked slightly off the Royal Mile and away from the thick of the tourist crowd. It felt like a proper Scottish pub, low ceilings, wooden beams, cozy nooks, and all. The food was hearty and flavorful—exactly what we were craving after a long travel day.
The true star? Sticky toffee pudding and a slice of homemade cheesecake for dessert. Both absolutely worth writing home about. (Or blogging about!)
🌟 Day 5 Highlights:
• Private swim at The Highland Club pool 🏊
• Breakfast stop at The Apiary in Dalwhinnie 🥐☕
• Wandering Edinburgh’s Royal Mile with an owl encounter 🦉
• Booking our whisky tasting tour for tomorrow 🥃
• Sunset views from Edinburgh Castle 🏰
• Cozy dinner at The Tollbooth Tavern, with desserts to remember 🍮🍰
Tomorrow, we dive into more of what Edinburgh has to offer—including that long-awaited whisky tasting and one last chance to soak in all the Scottish magic.
Day 6 – Whisky, Wands & Dinosaurs in the City
Our final full day in Scotland was like a perfectly brewed blend—equal parts adventure, flavor, magic, and memory-making. From sipping golden drams and exploring magical shops to ending the day with dinosaurs and giant animals, Edinburgh gave us one last day we’ll be talking about for a long time.
🥃 Starting the Day with a Dram
We began the morning with an adult highlight: a whisky tasting at The Scotch Whisky Experience. Located just beside the towering Edinburgh Castle, this beautifully curated tour brought us into the heart of Scotland’s national drink. From the swirling aromas to the glowing golds of the tasting room, it was immersive, educational, and incredibly tasty.
We each tried a few drams—learning to savor them slowly—and even Milo got a special “kid’s tasting” with a sweet, non-alcoholic drink Ironbru in his very own tiny whisky glass. He clinked glasses with us like a champ.
🧙♂️ Wand Shopping at Museum Context
Next, we wandered over to The Museum Context—a dreamy Harry Potter-themed shop that looks like it was plucked straight out of Diagon Alley. Multi-story, mysterious, and full of magical details, it had everything from wands and house scarves to floating candles and vintage books. The line seems long from the street but it doesn’t take too long.
Milo fell in love with a plush Hedwig and was eyeing the butterbeer!
🥩 Lunch at The Mussel & Steak Bar
All that exploring called for a proper meal, and The Mussel & Steak Bar delivered. Tucked off the Royal Mile, this cozy eatery served up tender steaks and fresh seafood—mussels in creamy garlic sauce, juicy ribeye, and even some bites the kids were willing to try. We left happy, full, and already planning an afternoon recovery drink!
☕ A Quick Pick-Me-Up at The Milkman
No Edinburgh afternoon is complete without a coffee break, so we made our way to The Milkman—a tiny, charming café with warm wood interiors and incredible espresso. Their lattes were smooth, the pastries tempting, and the vibe just what we needed to recharge before sunset. The turmeric latte, flat white and the pastries were to die for! We snagged a carrot cake and cranberry bar and parked on the bench outside and people watched for a while.
🦖 A Roar-Some End at the National Museum
As our feet began to tire, we made one last spontaneous stop at the National Museum of Scotland—and it turned out to be one of Milo’s favorite moments of the day. This massive (and free!) museum is packed with treasures, but we made a beeline for the natural history section, where we were greeted by a towering T. rex skeleton, life-sized prehistoric creatures, and interactive exhibits that had Milo wide-eyed and bouncing between displays.
We also wandered through the animal exhibits—giant giraffes, soaring birds, and even a robotic replica of Dolly the Sheep. It was a perfect family-friendly finale that balanced out the grown-up fun with some pure, wide-eyed wonder. If you are looking for a toddler friendly activity look no further, and the best part is that it is free to enter!
🌟 Day 6 Highlights:
• Whisky tasting at The Scotch Whisky Experience 🥃
• Wand shopping at Museum Context Harry Potter shop 🧙♂️
• Delicious lunch at The Mussel & Steak Bar 🥩
• Coffee break at The Milkman ☕
• Dino-filled finale at the National Museum of Scotland 🦖
Scotland gave us magic in so many forms—dramatic landscapes, ancient stories, family laughs, and even a T. rex or two. Tomorrow we head home, but our hearts are packed full of everything this country shared with us. We woke up early and jumped in our rental car and headed back into the country side for a 6 hour drive to Manchester airport.
Our 6-day Scottish adventure took us from the rolling roads of Manchester to the breathtaking Highlands and historic charm of Edinburgh, with unforgettable family moments along the way. We wandered castle gardens in Inveraray, island-hopped to see puffins and picnic on Lunga, chased the Hogwarts Express at Glenfinnan, tasted whisky in Kyle, and dipped our toes in the Fairy Pools at sunset. From swimming in a converted monastery at The Highland Club to feeding reindeer in Cairngorms and spotting Highland coos in the wild, every day offered something magical. We wrapped it all up with Harry Potter sights, whisky tastings, and dinosaur encounters in Edinburgh—Scotland captured our hearts with its rugged beauty, warm people, and family-friendly wonder.
Thanks for joining us on this wild and wonderful journey.